The remaining materials are used to finish off the weaving process. You are encouraged to go around the form 8 times or so before switching to the next material, which will be the ¼” flat reed. At this point, it’s essential to over weave a small section of the round reed with the bamboo-section so that everything blends together. Switch To The ⅛” Round ReedĪt the end of the tapered section of the quiver, it’ll be time to hang materials to the ⅛” round reed. Make sure that each row of bamboo is snug with the neighboring rows of bamboo. The bamboo weave should be snug against the quiver, but things shouldn’t be so tight that the shape of the quiver begins to become deformed.
Proceed by weaving it over and under the uprights in alternating fashion until the entire form is covered. At this point, you can take it out of the soaking tub and stick it under one of the uprights at the top of the form. The bamboo should’ve been left soaking for a while.
It requires a fair bit of craftsmanship, although it is certainly not impossible to do if you follow the steps in the section below. Perhaps the most challenging part of the process is the weaving of the bamboo through the upright reeds. Always make sure the reeds are soaked in water first.The recommendations for trimming the uprights are simple. Otherwise, it’ll be more challenging to shape them into a basket. The half-oval reed uprights must be trimmed in the center. Be sure to wear gloves throughout the dyeing process.Water-based dyes offer more muted color variations, which can better blend into natural surroundings.Alcohol-based dyes are easier to work with since they don’t bleed through the reeds and dry fast.The type of dye you choose will affect how complex this process will be. Of course, you could probably make a functional quiver without the dye, but the stain makes the quiver look much more presentable. Be creative as you would like, as this is the best opportunity to do so. You don’t have to worry about soaking them for too long. If you let them soak for a while, they will soften and become more malleable. Reeds are very dry and brittle, making them hard to work with at this stage. Whenever you use reeds to form an object, you will need to soak them in water first. The CTA Basket Quiver instructions ask for 11 uprights of reed, each measuring 25″ in length and ⅜” in diameter. I only offer the story of the long delay to make sure folks who might order from him know not to expect immediate delivery.Once you have gathered your materials, remove enough of these from the packaging to fit one quiver. And the finial result when I did receive my quiver was amazing.
TACTICAL BACK QUIVER FULL
I can say while he was full of excuses and delays, he was pretty good responding when ever I emailed him. I don't now if these were all legit problems and Steve was just having a really bad year, or according to him a bad 2 years. After receiving a reply explaining illness and issues I waited a few months and again asked for an update, and received another email siting personal problems delaying work. After about 6 months I sent an email asking for an update. It was almost exactly a year from ordering to receiving my quiver. The leatherworker Steve Catts who makes these seemed to have a lot of personal issues and a large back log that delayed his working on my quiver. Having a removable top helps keep weather out, and arrows in during long hikes. The multi function of these is a standard back quiver, a bottom draw back quiver, and a side quiver.
TACTICAL BACK QUIVER PATCH
Also I sewed a leather "Mountains are calling" patch I got from dRobinson on the quiver. The big differences between the stock pic and mine are mine is a bit darker brown and the pouch I have has a beaver tail closure.
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